BEIRUT: “In the lives of the people coming to the workshops, there will be two moments: before and after coming to the workshop,” celebrated chef Fernando Canales told The Daily Star.
The native Spaniard, who has worked at two Michelin-starred restaurants, recently decided to visit Beirut to hold workshops at the Phoenicia Hotel and prepare a dinner at Le Vendome Hotel’s restaurant, Sydney’s.
But such activities aren’t only for participants’ learning, he added, they are also opportunities for him to further expand his knowledge by acquiring techniques and expertise from those present.
“I like [workshops] because I learn a lot from people, they teach me things and how they cook ... if they think they’re going to come here, sit, see me and going to learn – no,” he laughed.
Hailing from Spain’s Basque Country, Canales explained that a love for cooking runs deep among residents there. Basque cuisine is at the heart of the culture of the semiautonomous region, which has boasted dining clubs since the 20th century, in which men gather to cook and eat, known as txoko in the local language.
“We love cooking and in our country, different from the rest of Spain, the man cooks,” Canales said. “Cooking in our country is a religion, we love cooking. It’s like the Lebanese – the Lebanese are the Basque of Arabia and we are the Lebanese of Spain.”
The Basque Country sits in northern Spain, along the mountainous Pyrenees border with France, and is surrounded by the Bay of Biscay. Its location is reflected in its cuisine, and Canales attributed the strength of his region’s dishes to the Basque’s reliance on fish and other seafood.
“Because there’re a lot of mountains, we can’t plant, but we need to eat. We have a very rich sea in front of us, so where are we going to eat? From the sea.”
At a young age, he was a chef at a one-star Michelin restaurant, something that encouraged him to aspire for more as he grew older.
Among his many achievements, Canales owns a restaurant called Etxanobe – his mother’s family name. Opened in 1999, it wasn’t long before Etxanobe was awarded one Michelin star.
During his 16 years as a restaurant owner, Canales became determined to spread his love of the distinctive Basque cuisine. His cooking focuses a lot on fish and Basque flavors that he incorporates into simple and healthy dishes.
However, don’t let this simplicity fool you, Canales said.
“It’s because you have to make something that’s not sophisticated, but very difficult to arrive [at]. A lot of flavors, but you think you are eating one.”
One of the national dishes that Canales raves about is “txangurro,” a stew made from crab, served in its shell. Although it takes some time to prepare, Basque residents love it, he said.
“Gilda,” a finger food, is another local favorite.
The name goes back to the movie of the same name starring Rita Hayworth, Canales said, apparently because the actress was among the first to attend the San Sebastian Film Festival, held in a town in the Basque Country, where Gilda was being screened.
The presentation of the dish might differ, but it is always made of olives, anchovies and spicy pepper.
“All the bars in the Basque country offer Gilda. When you get there you will see a bar with a lot of food – one is always Gilda. If you have a bar [with food] and there’s no Gilda, you can close the bar,” he joked.
In addition to owning Etxanobe, Canales and his team buy up struggling restaurants.
“Our business is based on excellence ... looking for the best of the best,” he said.
“The Michelin star is nothing if behind the star there’s no product, no idea.”
If Canales feels hesitant about a certain dish, he prepares several other ones for comparison and then chooses the best to be served.
His business is about passion and the ability to merge random or seemingly plain items into an exquisite dish. And for Canales, there is one more crucial ingredient: A keen understanding of the idea that the customer always comes first.
He places great importance on this idea, and his motto, “Excellence in communicating with the people,” is deeply rooted within his perspective on being a chef and a business owner.
Although sometimes the pressure might be too much to handle, maintaining respect toward others is key. This strategy begins with Canales himself, his team and the harmony between them.
“I talk with my staff exactly the same way as I talk with my guests. Why? Because like that, without knowing, my team will be very polite,” he said.
“Our slogan is that the people in front of you at that moment are the most important people in the world.”
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