BEIRUT: From shawarma spots to fine dining restaurants, the Health Ministry’s sweeping crackdown on food safety has, at times, been tough to stomach. Establishments cited for hygiene issues are dusting themselves off and moving forward with a stricter eye on safety measures and suppliers. Restaurant managers say that despite the negative publicity, they have been able to stay in business.
“We still have the same customers, the same people who always come,” said Malak al-Batata manager, Wassim Shaar.
The casual dining mainstay in Hamra was closed by the Health Ministry for nearly a week due to general hygiene issues and the need for renovation.
Shaar said that renovations to the kitchen floor had already been in place several months prior to the restaurant’s citation and subsequent closure.
“I told [the inspector] I need 15 days to renovate,” he said. “I was surprised that, three days later, they closed the restaurant.”
He said he consulted with food and hygiene company Boecker to improve food safety standards, and the restaurant has since re-opened with a closer watch on hygiene.
The Daily Star spoke to several establishments that were publicized for food safety violations. Many were reluctant to speak for fear of attracting further attention.
Beginning in November, Health Minister Wael Abou Faour publicized the names of more than 1,000 restaurants, supermarkets, slaughterhouses and farms for unsatisfactory food sampling or inspection results. Some were shut down, pending required improvements and standards. Many were cited for unsafe meat and dairy products.
Fine dining establishments weren’t exempt from the campaign. Zaitunay Bay’s upscale seafood restaurant, Karam al-Bahar, was cited for its soujouk, raw fish, makanek and shrimp.
However, a manager, speaking on the condition of anonymity, said that safety standards have always been high. He said it has promptly followed up on violations, and is working with consultancy Boecker to ensure safety and hygiene standards are met.
He added that an investigation revealed that the main issue was the water treatment at Zaitunay Bay.
“We are working on fixing this. We plan to get our own private water treatment system.” His remarks echoed many establishments cited by the ministry that blamed faulty suppliers of water, meat and dairy products.
Major supermarket chain TSC was cited for unsatisfactory meat. Its head of marketing Christine Khoury said the problem lay with the supplier, who was relying on Beirut’s main slaughterhouse in Karantina. The slaughterhouse had also made the minister’s list, and was temporarily shut down.
“We deal with suppliers certified by the Health Ministry. How could we know?” Khoury said. She added that the meat supplier has since switched slaughterhouses.
She added that TSC continues to reinforce its own internal safety policy for hygiene monitoring, as well as staff training guidelines.
Safety measures include regularly scheduled deep cleaning, the use of hair nets and gloves while handling foods, and keeping meat, fish and produce in separate storage facilities.
Some establishments felt that the wave of media attention caused the public to falsely associate them with unhygienic practices.
Abdallah Bendakji, owner of Grand CafĂ©, was told by the Tourism Ministry to update the flooring of his Downtown location. He felt that reports portrayed his restaurant in an unfair light, as he had no food or hygiene violations cited by the Health Ministry. He further emphasized that restaurant owners need clarity and transparency from ministries, as navigating the rules can be a challenge.“Tell me what the rules are and I will follow them. The ministries should make the rules clear.”
A staff member from the Health Ministry’s food safety office, responsible for overseeing inspections and sampling, said that restaurants should inquire with the ministry if they were unclear on the laws.
He added that food safety does not begin with restaurants, but rather, the source.
While some restaurants are now looking to acquire international food safety certifications, such as ISO 22000, he said that this can’t always guarantee food hygiene.
“Restaurants trying to apply ISO 22000 will still have trouble ensuring food safety if the source of the food is unclean,” he said.
“Here in Lebanon, there is a problem with the traceability of the products. The water must be clean, as well as other inputs.”
According to the staff member, that the food safety campaign was a positive contribution to public health, as the publicity is forcing restaurants to tighten their standards and question the source of their food.
“Now the restaurants are going back to suppliers and putting them under pressure,” he said.
Abou Faour’s campaign has not come without its share of criticism, Economy Minister Alain Hakim called it a “media circus.” Bloggers have questioned the fairness and transparency of his inspection and sampling methods.
Hussein Hasan, assistant professor of food science and technology at Lebanese American University said that Abou Faour’s efforts were good, but not as good as proponents may think, particularly if it fails to streamline the responsibilities of all ministries involved in food safety.
“It is good that he raised awareness of food safety. The problem is, he is fighting alone,” said Hasan, who is also a senior food expert at the Ministry of Economy.
“Lebanon is one of the few countries where food safety is tackled by seven different ministries.”
Currently, the Tourism, Health, Economy, Agriculture, Industry, Environment and Interior ministries all have a hand in the management of food establishments.
Synchronization and consistent application of rules through all points of the food chain, from farm to fork, remains a challenge, according to Hasan.
International standards such as ISO 22000 can play a vital role for food safety, he said, particularly in developing countries such as Lebanon, where the government has traditionally been inconsistent on food monitoring.
“Each food service establishment is taking measures to improve product safety, but if all of the measures are not placed in the right frame, you will not achieve the best result,” Hasan said, explaining that standards like ISO 22000 can help food service businesses identify gaps in their current safety systems.
He questioned the sustainability of the food safety campaign unless a law on the issue was passed.
“In two years, another minister will take [Abou Faour’s] position. They need to approve this law to have [a centralized] food safety authority.”